Kimono Glossary

A
Ajiro: Fabric woven with shaved bamboo or cypress trees.
Ajisai: hydrangea
Aoi: hollyhock
Asa: hemp
Asamoyou: hemp motif pattern.
Asanoha: A flax ornament, one of the geometric patterns, named after its leaf. It's often used for a child's wear because of its strong growth. The continual one is called "Asanoha-tsunagi".
Ayame: iris
Azami: thistle

B
Bangasa: Japanese traditional umbrella
Bijinga:a type of picture, which portrays the beauty of women especially in the ukiyo-e tradition, .
Bingata: a polychrome stencil dyeing technique developed in Okinawa. Its colorful stencil and gradation creates unique tone.
Boke: Japanese quince
Botan: peony
Bugu: Japanese traditional arm
Bukkaku: Buddhist temple

C
Chaya-Tsuji: one of the Kimono patterns. Landscape arranged with such as houses, bridges, trees and flowers.
Chijimi: formally called Omeshi Chirimen, which is pre-dyed fabric with fine wrinkles on its surface. The wrinkles come out with strongly twisted silk weft threads.
Chikara-nuno: collar adjustment
Chirimen: wavy wrinkled silk fabric with a distinctive weaving technique. It is done by twisting threads while weaving.
Chuya-Obi: reversible Obi with two different patterns inside and outside. Literally, "Chuya" means night and day. Since early Chuya-Obi had a black side and a patterned side, it was likened to dark night and bright day.
Chikara- nuno: collar adjustment

D
Dandarazome: pattern of multi-colored stripes.
Date-jime or Date-maki: waistband or under-sash.
Donsu: Damask silk, which is thick and has glossy texture.

E
Edo-Yuzen: one of Yuzen techniques. Edo-yuzen is characterized by its pale colors and patterns painted only on the front side.
Eigata: distinctive stencil dyeing technique developed in Okinawa. This monotone textile dyed only using "Ai" indigo is so much different from the normal colorful Bingata dyeing. Eri shin:half-collar lining.
Eri shin:half-collar lining

F
Fukure-Ori: Cloque, one of the double-layered textiles. The pattern is irregular because of two layers attached partly.

Fukuro-Obi: A kind of Obi. Fukuro-Obi is appropriate for formal and semiformal occasions. Fukuro means double-fold or bag. It is made of two different fabrics, which are sewn together. The pattern only appears on one side.

Fukusa: Fukusa is a piece of square cloth, sometimes with embroidery. It is used at an auspicious occasion like pre-wedding. It is used to wrap or put on a present.

Furisode: A type of Kimono for unmarried women. It is worn at wedding, Coming-of-Age Day, and parties. The surface is designed with graceful patterns. The total length of the sleeves is longer than other Kimonos.

Fuji: wisteria

G
Genji-Kou: One of the Kimono patterns, which derives from a traditional game called, "Kou-awase", which is played by guessing the name of the incense. Signs used in the game became patterns for textiles.

Genji-Gumo: One of the cloud-shaped Kimono patterns. This is named after cloud designs drawn in the famous Japanese tale, "Tale of Genji".

Genroku-Sode: A form of sleeve design for women's Kimono. It has a shorter length and rounded corners.

Gosyo-Doki-Monyo: One of the scenic Kimono patterns with dynamic bright patterns, (Gosyo-Guruma or fan) and quiet patterns (stream or grass).

Gotenjyou: One of the Kimono patterns. This originates from the design for a ceiling, combination of square woods. This design is common in shrines and temples. This type of design is mostly used for formal Kimono and Obi.

Garazome: design dyed on white fabric
Gosyo-ningyou: japanese baby doll
Garamihon: various pattern samples

H
Habutae: Smooth, glossy and tight silk textiles.
Hakata-Obi: A kind of stiff Obi. Hakata-Obi is woven with thin warp and thick weft. Hakata is a name of district in Kyushu area. As Hakata-Obi is firm, stiffeners are unnecessary.

Hakogaki: An artist's signature on a box of his or her work.

Hakkake: Hem of the lining of Kimono. Usually, the color for Hakkake is bright and selected to match the color of Kimono. It is also called Suso-Mawashi. The color and design of Hakkake appears and disappears while walking, which looks elegant and fashionable.

Hana-Guruma: One of the Kimono patterns. Gosyo-Guruma with colorful flowers. Gosyo-Guruma is an imperial wheel or car from the Heian era (794-1192 AD)

Hanhaba-Obi: A kind of Obi that is half the width of other Obi. You can wear Hanhaba-Obi more casually with Yukata and other Kimonos.

Haori: Haori is a jacket of Kimono. Originally worn by men only. Women allowed to wear after Meiji-era, and became all the rage in Taisho period (1912-1926).

Heko-Obi: A kind of Obi for boys or gentlemen.
Hiougi: A kind of fan made of the Hinoki, Japanese cypress tree.
Hitoe: A type of Kimono, which doesn't have lining. Usually worn in summer.
Hitokoshi-Chirimen: A kind of Chirinen, crepe silk. This is characterized by its small and minute wrinkle. This is flat and very firm.
Hitotsumi: Long Kimono for infants.

Hiyoku-Jitate: One of the tailoring methods to make Kimonos two-layered on easily stained parts, such as collar, cuff, bottom and so on. In old days, Tomesode was worn over the white Habutae, an under garment in addition to Nagajuban which is always worn under any Kimono. As wearing both Habutae and Nagajuban was heavy and hot, current Kimono are tailored with Hiyoku-Jitate.

Homongi: A type of semiformal Kimono. Homongi can be worn at any age and any occasions from a formal ceremony to daily occasions such as visiting a friend's house. Homongi is less formal than the Furisode (formal dress for unmarried women). Sumptuous design completely covers Homongi.

Houou: phoenix.
Hanabishi: floral diamond
Hinoki: cypress
Hyoutan: bottle gourd
Hakoseko: grooming set
Hamaguri: clam shells
Higaki: (basket)weave
Hagi: bush clover
Houzuki: ground cherry
Hadajyuban: undershirt
Han eri: half-collar
Hannyasingyou: Buddhist scriptures
Hanabishi: Diamond-shaped flower
Houou(Fenghuang): Chinese phoenix, an auspicious imaginary chinese bird like a phoenix. It is composed of several different creatures including the peacock and the pheasant. And also, it was a symbol of lougerity and good fortune.

I
Ichimatsu: One of the Kimono patterns. It is a checked pattern, which is composed of two different colors.
Igeta: One of the Kimono patterns. It looks like the mouth of a Japanese traditional well.
Ityou:ginkgo
Inaho:autumn rice ear

J
Jingasa: Hat for the lower-level warrior like foot soldiers. It was made of light iron or leather covered with lacquer. Later it became a common fashion of Samurai.
Jyofu: One of the fabrics. It is made of hemp, so it is thin and light. It is used for summer wear.
Jin-ken: rayon silk, art silk

K
Kaga-Yuzen: One of the Yuzen dyeing techniques, which was developed in Kanazawa. It uses a nature motif and it has distinctive calmness and tenderness.

Kakeshita: Kakeshita is special Furisode which is worn underneath the uchikake. White color is commonly used. But, recently, florid-looking pattern is also used.

Kaketsugi: Mending technique. To sew a torn part to hide the seam.
Kanoko-Shibori: One of the tie-dyed techniques. The pattern looks like dots on the back of deer. Kanoko literally means infant deer.
Kasumimon: One of the Kimono patterns. Mist motif with Japanese style.
Kasuri: One of the Kimono patterns. As it is woven with pre-dyed threads, sometimes an undyed part appears. That part is used as motif.

Katazome: The stencil dyeing. Stencil is made of Washi (Japanese paper). This technique is distinguished by printing technique like Hanzome (using a metal stencil) and Nassen-hou (using a carved roller).

Kichou: Curtain in Heian era (794-1192), which was used to divide a room.
Kikkou: One of the Kimono designs resembling the carapace of a turtle or a hexagonal pattern.
Kinari: Natural undyed fabric.
Kinsai-Yuzen: Developed from Yuzen-zome. Gilt technique with gold and silver.
Kinsya: High quality silk-gauze woven with foil, gold and silk threads. As it is thin and light, it is used for summer wear.
Kissyo-Ka: Auspicious flowers such as chrysanthemum, peony, plum flower, Paulson and others.
Kofurisode: Short-sleeved Furisode. The length of the sleeves is about 30 inches.
Komon: Stencil-dyed Kimono, which has fine pattern all over.
Koubai: Sheer material with lattice pattern. It was woven with thick warp and weft threads.
Kougai: An ornamental hairpin.
Kouketsu (Koukechi): Similar to Shibori technique (tie-dyed). It makes fabrics more puffed-up.
Kusudama: A brocaded bag containing various kinds of medicines and perfumes, tied with iris or wormwood, with five long strings of different colors hanging from it.
Kyokusui: An abstract stream pattern.
Karakusamoyou: Arabesque ex) Peony arabesque, chrysanthemum arabesque etc.
Kasen: synthetics
Kin-to-gin-no-kazari: brocade.
Kiji: pheasant.
Kujyaku: peacock
Kamome: gull
Kame: turtle
Kikyou: bellflower
Kiri: paulownia
Katabami: oxalis
Kashiwa: oak leaf
Kaji: mulberry tree
Katazome: stencil silk
Kura: warehouse
Kousu: plaid
Karajishi: oriental lion
Katabami: oxalis
Kouka: safflower
Kaki: persimmon
Korokuzome: tie-dyed designs
Koshihimo: sash
Karihimo: temporary cord
Koban:an oval gold [silver] coin
Koukechizome:Bound resist. An early type of resist dying for textiles, along with waxresist roukechi, and carved wooden-block resist kyoukechi. It wasorignially imported from China during the Nara period, and is made domestically in Japan.

L

M
Mameshibori: A tie-dye technique that shows round patterns like beans.
Maru-Obi: A type of Obi. The patterns are woven on double wide fabric, and it is bent and stitched. So both outside and backside are beautifully patterned. This is worn with a formal Kimono. Fully patterned Maru-Obi appeared in the end of Edo era, 1603 to 1687. In those days, Maru-Obi was luxurious and the most formal one for wealthy people. Due to its thickness, Maru-Obi can't be folded in half like contemporary Obi. So, it is worn unfolded. Even if it looked gorgeous, it was hard to wear because of its thickness and heaviness. Moreover, it was expensive. These days, Fukuro-Obi (double fold-Obi) is worn instead of it. Maru-Obi is worn only on the special occasions such as wedding.

Meisen: Reeled silk. Meisen is woven with dyed cocoon using Hiraori technique. Worn by wide range of classes. Meisen Kimono is a casual cloth for wealthy people but a fine cloth for ordinary people. This type of Kimono has dynamic art nouveau style patterns, which is not only glossy but also vigorous. This design is extremely popular in 1910 to 1950.

Michiyuki: A coat for Kimono with a square collar in front.
Miyamairi: A Japanese custom to make a wish for children to grow up in good health.
Mizutama:polka-dot.
Manjimoyou: swastika motif pattern.
Momiji: maple leaf
Mokkou: saussureae
Matoi: fire fighting item.
Myouga:japanese ginger.
Matsu:pine tree
Matsukasa:pine cone
Momen:cotton
Momi:A fine red silk, rarely seen in recent years.

N
Nagajuban: Under the kimono, we wear a Naga-Juban to keep the kimono from getting worn or stained. Only the tip of the Naga-Juban could be seen between your neck and the kimono, but it can create a subtle balance of the entire outfit you are in. Of course there are several kinds of Naga-Juban. Some are for the use on the ceremonial occasions with mourning kimono or bridal Furisode, Others are for rather casual occasions with Tsukesage etc. Rinzu, Chirimen, Muslin are usually used as the material of Naga-Juban. And with summer kimonos, Sha or hemp are mainly used. Each material has each own characteristic. It can be said that Naga- Juban is a hidden smartness.

Nishijin: A type of textile made in Nishijin area of Kyoto. Nishijin textiles feature gorgeous patterns with various colors of threads.
Nuitori-Shishu: A weaving technique that makes woven patterns look like embroidery. Often seen on valuable Kimonos.
Nuregaki: Water-painting without using glue-resist. For painting, brush is soaked with water to give a blurring effect.
Nanamejima: diagonal
Nadeshiko: pink
Nuregaki: water painting
Nanten: nandina

O
Obi: A belt for kimono. Maru-Obi is ranked the highest in all the formal Obi. It originally has twice the width compared with that of others, and then doubles to be completed for putting on. So this is quite a gorgeous obi which has single pattern spread throughout both the front and the reverse side. Around the 40's or 50's, Maru-Obi was developed into Fukuro-Obi making itself easier to put on. So Fukuro- Obi still has ceremonial or formal aspects, but comes to be put on rather casual occasions, too, carrying the pattern on the front side only. Nagoya-Obi is used in the wide range of occasions from the casual to the formal, which was invented in the Taisho Period. You can distinguish Nagoya-Obi from others because of the difference of their shapes. Nagoya-Obi has a narrow part and a wider part. "Hanhaba" means "half the width". Hanhaba-Obi is usually put on with casual kimono so that you can do little things. The main feature is "easy to put on, easy to take off". The reversible ones are often seen with gorgeous embroidery.

Obi-age: The Obi-age is supposed to be put between the Obi and Kimono to be seen from upper line of Obi.It makes Obi much flowery.
Obi-ita: Obi stay
Obi-makura: Obi pad
Obi-jime: Obi cord
Oh-Furisode (Big Furisode): Some decades ago, brides wore black-based Oh- Furisode as their wedding dresses, yet they wear colored Oh-Furisode in today's wedding ceremony. The width of Oh-Furisode`s sleeves is about 114 cm.

Omeshi: A textile woven with strongly twisted pre-dyed silk threads. There are two types of Omeshi, one is Hiraori-Omeshi and the other is Chirimen Omeshi. By 1960, Omeshi Kimonos hold 80% of Kimono market share, but now, produced only in small quantities. Omeshi Kimonos were ranked the highest in pre-dyed silk Kimonos, and were extremely valuable. Its texture is firmer than Chirimen.

Origami: Origami is one of the most popular paper crafts. A piece of paper is folded to create animals, flowers and other things. The most popular one is "Orizuru" (Crane).

Oshima-Tsumugi: One of the high-grade Kimonos that is made in Amami Island in Kagoshima prefecture. This features Kasuri, splashed-pattern with pre-dyed silk threads.

Ori-no-moyou:weave
Ori-zuru: paper crane
Oshidori: mandarin duck
Omodaka: starfruit.
Onagadori: a long-taild cock.
Oharame: a women who used to sell flowers, brushwood and firewood in Kyoto.

P
Pokkuri: Wooden clogs with thick soles and hollow round heels, tilting forwards, for a little girl.

Q

R
Raden: Decoration for lacquerer by using fragments of mother-of-pearl with prismatic radiance.
Rinzu: Glossy thick silk.
Ro: Leno weaving silk gauze, which is used for a summer wear.
Roketsu-Zome: Batick dyeing. By drawing patterns with wax, the dye runs into the crack of wax. After rinsing the wax off, irregular lines appear as a pattern.
Rou-Tataki: A kind of batick dyeing technique using wax as resist. By spattering liquid wax with a brush, undyed places form a unique scattered pattern. A highly valued one has layers of different colors. By selecting waxes of various kinds, the artists design Kimono in various ways.

Ryukyu-Kasuri: One of Indigo dyeing techniques for cotton. It is also called Okinawa- Kasuri.
Run: orchid.
Rakuda: camel
Rochirimen: Also known as muslin. Thin fabrics woven with wool threads by Hiraori that is the most common weaving technique.
Raden-zaiku: Mother-of-pearl work; one of the craft technique for decorating, pasting and setting the pearl blue part of shells in the surface of lacquer ware and wood, after polishing and trimming. It was told to Japan by China at the Nara era, and it was used together with the Maki-e lacqer at the Heian era.

S
Saga-Brocade: A brocade technique developed in Saga prefecture. Japanese paper coated with gold, silver or lacqueur leaf is interlaced with colored silk threads. Since it's time-consuming work even for a skilled person, only several inches are produced every day.

Same-Komon: One of the Kimono patterns featured in Edo era, 1603-1867. It has tiny dyed dots all over the fabric. It looks like shark skin. That is why it is called Same (sharks)-Komon (small dots).

Sarasa: One of the Kimono patterns on fine quality cottons. It has colorful patterns of human, plants, or other creatures (sometimes with mythical creatures). There are two ways of painting Sarasa pattern. One is to paint directly on the cotton, the other is to use a stencil. Sarasa was invented in India in 16th century.

Sei-Gai-Ha: A wave pattern resembling fans.
Sendai-Hira: Sendai Hira was created in Edo period adopting a techniques of Nishijin. So Sendai Hira is famous for its elaboration and used for Men's hakama.
Shibori: Tie-dye.
Shikunshi: A general term for four plants; orchid, chrysanthemum, plum and bamboo.
Shio-Ze: Accurately Shio-ze-Habutae. Thick Habutae for dyed Obi.
Shippou: A distinct pattern, which is made of overlapping circles, is often seen on clothing and furnishings of noble families during Heian era (794-1868). It literally means seven treasures in Buddhist terms.

Sha: A sheer silk fabric. It is light and has rough texture. Therefore, it's usually used for the summer Kimono. It can be spelled "Sya" or "Sa".

Shirusi-Banten: Shirushi-Banten is a Hanten that has dyed crests, such as Yagou or other types of marks, on its collar or back.

Shitsuke: Threads keeping Kimonos in good shape while Kimonos are sewn. After Kimonos are completed by the tailor, they are taken away. Please remove them before wearing Kimonos.

Sumi-nagashi: Design of flowing black ink.

Swatow-Embroidery: There is a small town called "Swatow" in China. This embroidery was produced in the town 500-600 years ago. It is known as one of four major sewing areas in China. It was originally a hobby for the noble-classes. Some years later, it became a popular art craft among people. Usually it takes 5-7 days to stitch a single Swatow embroidered handkerchief by skillful young women. They stitch handkerchiefs by hand one by one. Its delicateness and elaborateness are admired in & out of China, and it is appreciated as a high-grade art craft of embroidery.

Syusu: A weaving technique. It has a smooth and glossy texture.
Sayagata?: A design pattern of interlocking swastikas.
Shisyuu?: embroidery.
Shibagaki?: brushwood
Susuki: grass tree
Shiborizome: tie-dyed
Sukashi-moyou :see-through pattern, watermark
Shika:deer
Suzume:sparrow
Suzuran: lily of the ralley
Sasa: bamboo leaf
Suisen: narcissus
Susoyoke: half-ship

T
Tabane-Noshi: One of the Noshi-monyou patterns. Noshi originally means narrow strips of dried abalone bundled together in the middle, it was the ritual offering to God in Japanese Shinto religion. Often seen in the masterpieces of Furisode Kimonos, during the middle of Edo era, used by various techniques. The design with Tabane-Noshi is used in various ways these days.

Tatsuwaki: A design of lasting wavy lines. Also called Tatewaku. The designs with chrysanthemum, paulownia and cloud, are called "Kiku-Tachiwaki", "Kiri-Tachiwaki" and "Kumo- Tachiwaki", and are still often used.

Tamoto: Hanging sleeve
Tanzaku: Thick rectangular paper used for writing Waka and Haiku (Japanese poems).

Tomesode: Tomesode is the most formal Kimono worn by married women at a wedding and other official celebrations. Especially, black tomesode, which has a black background, is the most formal among Tomesode Kimonos. Colored tomesode feature a pattern against a colored background. All the patterns of tomesode Kimonos appear only at the bottom or with the family crests.

Tsubodare: One of the patterns. It represents dropping glaze on a Japanese vase.

Tsukesage: A type of Kimono that is slightly less formal than Homongi. Tailored to make the patterns on both sides go to the same direction (upward, to top of shoulders).

Tsumugi: A textile woven with hand-spun threads from cocoon fibers. It doesn't have a glossy nor smooth texture, but tasteful rough texture.

Tsuzumi: A Japanese drum.

Tsuzure-Ori: A weaving technique creating patterns only by the weft. There are three major kinds of Tsuzure technique, which are "Mon-Tsuzure", "Tsume-Tsuzure" and "Min-Tsuzure".

Tsutsugaki: A dyeing technique. Firstly, draw patterns with rice-glue in a conic paper tube. Secondly, wash the rice-glue away. Finally, the patterns are dyed in colors. The patterns arising through this process appear clearly and vividly.

Tatejima: vertical striped, color & color vertical stripes.
Tanzen:thermal coat.
Taka: hawk.
Takegaki: bamboo fence
Tsuta: ivy, vive
Tachibana:mandarin orange
Tsubaki:camellia
Tsuyukusa:dayflower
Temari: bouncing ball
Tamatebako: magical treasure box
Tsutsuji: an azalea
Tonbo: dragonfly
Tsurukusa: vine
Tabi: split-toed socks

U
Uchikake: Uchikake is a full-length outer robe. Until the Edo period, it was worn by women of Samurai, warrior, or noble families on special occasions. Since then, it had become a part of Japanese traditional bridal costume. Now it is only used for a wedding ceremony. The cotton is put inside the hemline, and it makes it much more elegant. The design and technique for the Uchikake is wonderful and sophisticated. In Kansai district, Uchikake is also called Kaidori in the their dialect.

Urushi-Ito: Lacquered thread. Lacquer foil is twisted with threads.
Urushi : lacquer
Uthiwa : paper-fan
Uzumaki : whir,swir
Uzumaki : whir,swir
Uguisu : nightingale
Ume : plum(blossom)

V

W
Washi: eagle
Wagakki: japanese traditional instrument

X

Y
Yagasuri: One of Kasuri patterns. The pattern is designed in the motif of arrows.
Yogi: A futon shaped like a Kimono or a Kimono which is made of futon materials.
Yotsumi: Kimonos for about 4-13 year-old kids.
Yukata: Cotton Kimonos without linings worn as bathrobes or as casual clothes for the summer.
Yusoku-Mon: Japanese traditional patterns (e.g.Tatsuwaki and Kikkou) that are used for costumes or furnishings of upper-class people during Heian era (794-1868).

Yuzen: Yuzen is a colorful hand-dyeing technique. As each pattern is drawn by hand, this process requires high technique and painstaking effort for mastering this skill. Each Yuzen Kimono is an artwork so cannot be produced in large quantities. Kimono artists bring up an idea for the painting first, and draw it on the canvas of Kimono fabric. Yuzen technique was originally invented by Yuzen Miyazaki, a famous Kyoto fan-painter during the Genroku period (1688-1704) of the Edo period. Until then, monochromatic indigo design was a trend, but his colorful dyeing design soon gained in popularity and was loved by women of all classes. Indeed, this innovative technique gave a tremendous impact on the conventional dyeing techniques. By tracing dye-resist paste made from pasty rice on the outline of each pattern, the color is isolated, and it avoids mixing colors. In this way, colorful dyeing became possible. This Yuzen technique spread all over Japan, and each region developed its own distinctive characteristics. Two of the most famous regions for Yuzen technique are Kaga, original name of Kanazawa and Edo, original name of Tokyo.

Yokojima: Striped, color & color stripes
Yabane: Striped, color & color stripes
Yorokejima: weavy striped
Yanagi: willow
Yuzu: citrus

Z
Zuihana: An imaginary fortunate flower.
Zo-ri: sandals

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